En route to Cambodia, we made a pit stop in Lop Buri so Ryan could come face-to-face with the primates he’s learned about in books and I could satiate my desire to explore this place more intimately. After a day of monkey stalking, we returned to our rental motorbike to find that four of the devils had chewed our seat and helmets to pieces. In a frenzy, I marched back to the hostel pleading innocence and ignorance and insisting it was a pack of wild monkey rebels that were to blame. Despite my laments, I was told that I am still responsible ($$) for the actions of whatever monkey decides to make a meal of my motorbike and that this, obviously, was common sense.

My frustration fueled my desire to find the inconspicuous Wat Khao Wongkot, where many monks and millions of bats dwell high above the city of Lop Buri. I set foot in my first cave, surrounded by stalactites, sleeping bats, and the peculiar odor of their dung. From the perspective of a mountain cliff at dusk, we watched in awe as the cave dwellers commenced their mass exodus and swarmed the sky like locusts. The slow-motion spirals of black specks created an eerie, supernatural phenomenon and evoked in me an empowering sensation.

Contrary to the way things look, it was we who were behind bars, while the monkeys ran free.

Ryan at Wat Phra Prang Sam Yot, or Monkey Temple, a favorite hangout of the little rascals.

Monkey business alongside a moving train.

Ryan braving the vicious creatures and attempting to fill their insatiable hunger.

Best Friends Forever

Tight-rope walking, just one of the monkeys’ many circus tricks.

Holding on for dear life…

…and failing, with style.

The latest, highly fashionable backpack accessory

View of Lop Buri from atop Khao Wongkot

Monkeys trying to reach Buddha and make merit.

Waiting for bats at dusk atop Khao Wongkot

Bats fleeing their cave at dusk and a lone monk witnessing the spectacle.

The Bat Cave, home to millions of bats.